Posted by Alfiya Yermukasheva
27 November 2025Written by Dr Ruth Cherrington, Senior Lecturer, University of Exeter
As we approach the final months of our nine-month research project, it’s a good moment to pause and reflect on what we’ve learned so far. When we began, our goal was clear: to understand how repair can be embedded into mainstream fashion business models and to generate evidence-based guidance for companies seeking to make repair a core part of their circular strategy.
The urgency behind this work hasn’t changed. The fashion industry still faces a staggering sustainability challenge. Globally, the industry produces around 92 million tonnes of textile waste annually, with the UK alone discarding approximately 300,000 tonnes of clothing each year (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017). The fashion sector accounts for approximately 10% of global carbon emissions and uses vast quantities of water and chemicals (Niinimäki et al., 2020). Repair remains one of the most practical interventions for extending garment lifespans, yet it is far from mainstream. Our project set out to explore why, and how businesses can change that.
The Environmental Case for Repair
The evidence for repair as a sustainability intervention is compelling. Research demonstrates that extending the average life of our clothes by a third, which in turn reduces the need to buy new items, we could reduce their carbon, waste, and water footprints by over 20% (WRAP, 2012). Even more significantly, increasing garment use by 75% could reduce carbon emissions by approximately 30% (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017). These figures underscore repair’s potential as a high-impact strategy for reducing fashion’s environmental burden.
The alternative—continued reliance on a linear model—is simply unsustainable. In 2021, almost half (49%) of all used textiles in the UK were disposed of in general waste, with 84% of these items incinerated and 11% sent to landfill (WRAP, 2024). With global clothing consumption expected to increase by 63% by 2030 from current levels (Global Fashion Agenda & Boston Consulting Group, 2017), the need for circular interventions like repair has never been more urgent.
The Social Case for Repair
The social value of repair is equally compelling. Research shows that, despite the negative stigma attached to mending clothes, repair communities can cultivate intergenerational exchange, foster situated learning, and strengthen social connectedness (Diddi & Yan, 2019; Durrani, 2018; Willett et al., 2022). The act of repair itself can also be a source of enjoyment and empowerment (Gwilt, 2014).
Yet the participation is not evenly distributed. Evidence indicates clear demographic disparities, with older women most engaged in mending—and often doing so as unpaid labour (Laitala & Klepp, 2018; McQueen et al., 2022). These patterns highlight how the social dimensions of repair, while rich with potential, are shaped by persistent inequalities that must be addressed if repair is to become a mainstream practice.
Where We Are Now
Over the past months, we’ve combined workshop observations, stakeholder interviews, and literature analysis to build a nuanced picture of repair in practice. Working closely with Finisterre, a brand that has championed repair for years, we’ve observed workshops in Cornwall, Bristol, and London, and spoken to staff and consumers about their experiences.
This hands-on approach has been invaluable. It’s allowed us to move beyond theory and see the real-world dynamics of repair—what works, what doesn’t, and what needs to change for repair to scale. Our methodology aligns with emerging research emphasizing the importance of understanding repair as a practice embedded in socio-material assemblages, consumer empowerment, and cultural meanings.
Emerging Themes
Several preliminary themes are beginning to stand out:
For businesses like Finisterre, repair isn’t just a sustainability add-on—it’s part of their identity. Consumers attending workshops often spoke about trust and authenticity, seeing repair as a signal of a brand’s commitment to longevity and quality. This finding resonates with broader industry evidence: fashion brands and retailers who implement circular economy business models including repair services can strengthen customer loyalty and positively impact their bottom line (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2021).
Companies can build customer loyalty by aligning with consumers’ growing demand for sustainability through loyalty programs or benefits for participating in repair services (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2021). However, this only works if repair is integrated meaningfully rather than as a token gesture. Beyond Finisterre, brands like Patagonia have demonstrated this principle successfully—the company operates the largest garment repair facility in North America and completed over 174,000 repairs globally in fiscal year 2025 (Patagonia, 2025). Their repair program has become central to brand identity, with customers returning specifically for repair services that build trust and demonstrate the company’s commitment to product quality and longevity (Retail Dive, 2025).
Embedding repair into a business model is not straightforward. From logistics and staffing to managing turnaround times, repair introduces operational challenges that many brands underestimate. Our interviews highlight the need for clear processes and investment in skilled labour—issues that are often overlooked in sustainability roadmaps.
Some brands have successfully navigated these complexities. For example, Swedish denim brand Nudie Jeans has built a multi-layered repair infrastructure consisting of 33 dedicated repair shops in 20 cities, mobile repair stations that travel to wholesale partners, and free repair kits for customers who prefer DIY repairs (Circle Economy Foundation, 2024). This diversified approach allows them to scale their free lifetime repair service while managing operational complexity. In 2024 alone, the company repaired 68,342 pairs of jeans, and since launching the program, they have repaired approximately 500,000 pairs (EU Textiles Ecosystem Platform, 2025). The brand’s partnership with Advanced Clothing Solutions in 2023 demonstrates how external partnerships can help manage capacity while maintaining quality standards (Modern Retail, 2023). This demonstrates that while operational investment is required, the returns—both financial and reputational—can be substantial when systems are designed thoughtfully.
Consumers value repair, but convenience and cost remain major hurdles. While workshop participants were highly engaged, they were often already sustainability minded. The question is: how do we reach mainstream consumers?
Research confirms this pattern. A UK study found that the main barriers to clothing repair concerned lack of skills, poor product design, unaffordability of repair services, and incongruence with identity (Zhang & Hale, 2022). Meanwhile, key enablers included the ability to focus during DIY tasks, dynamic social norms, beliefs about benefits of repairing, emotional attachment to clothing, and having routines and habits of repairing (Zhang & Hale, 2022).
Additional barriers include lack of time, negative attitudes towards mending, and the perceived expense of alteration services (Diddi & Yan, 2019). These findings suggest that behaviour change strategies—such as incentives, storytelling, skill-building workshops, and integrating repair into the purchase journey—are critical for scaling repair beyond early adopters.
Interestingly, research shows that clothing demonstrates higher rates of product attachment compared to other product categories, which can influence repair decisions even when items break early in their lifespan (Zhang & Hale, 2022). This emotional dimension presents an opportunity: fostering attachment to garments could motivate repair behaviour even when rational calculations of cost and convenience might discourage it. Community mending events can also foster intergenerational learning opportunities, strengthen social bonds, and help address municipal solid waste problems (Diddi & Yan, 2019).
One notable finding is the limited availability of data on repair’s impact. Businesses still want to know: Does repair lead to repeat purchases? How does it affect carbon footprints at scale? And what are the actual costs and benefits of offering repair services?
Our project is beginning to explore these questions, but the need for industry-wide data standards is clear. Brands implementing repair programs need access to metrics on quality issues, reparability, customer retention, and environmental impact to make informed decisions and demonstrate value to stakeholders. The emerging development of specialized technology platforms for repair services suggests the industry recognizes this need, but standardized measurement frameworks remain elusive.
Repair sits at the intersection of design, operations, marketing, and consumer engagement. No single department can own it. Successful integration requires cross-functional collaboration—and alignment with broader industry initiatives. In addition, collaboration with other actors, such as other brands, civil society, and academia, is also highlighted as a move forward.
Research suggests that awareness and skill-building campaigns, while important, are not enough to support behaviour change because people also need supportive environments, policies, and systems in place (Zhang & Hale, 2022). This includes regulatory measures such as Extended Producer Responsibility schemes and fiscal policies like tax breaks on repair services that some European countries have introduced.
The Ellen MacArthur Foundation reports that circular business models including rental, resale, repair, and remaking could be worth USD $700 billion by 2030, representing 23% of the global fashion market (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2021). Realizing this opportunity requires coordinated action across brands, policymakers, consumers, and civil society organizations.
What This Means for the Industry
These insights point to a bigger truth: repair is not just a technical fix; it’s a cultural and business transformation. For repair to become mainstream, brands need to see it not as a cost centre but as a strategic investment—one that delivers environmental benefits, consumer trust, and long-term resilience.
The business case is strengthening. Companies that invest in circular practices including repair have seen growth in customer loyalty and brand value. Patagonia’s repair program has been instrumental in building trust with customers, who appreciate the brand’s commitment to backing up the products it makes (Retail Dive, 2025). The program has also created valuable feedback mechanisms that allow the company to improve product design based on real-world usage patterns (Retail Dive, 2025).
Moreover, repair creates new touchpoints for customer engagement. When consumers bring garments in for repair, brands have opportunities to reinforce brand values, provide education on garment care, and potentially cross-sell complementary products or services. This transforms repair from a service obligation into a relationship-building opportunity.
However, achieving scale requires addressing systemic barriers. Multiple barriers exist regarding environmental context and resources, including lack of time and access to equipment, ease of competing behaviours, financial cost, and poor design features (Zhang & Hale, 2022). This suggests that the fashion industry and government hold key accountabilities in overcoming these barriers through environmental restructuring and enablement intervention types—it’s not merely consumers’ personal responsibility to increase repair behaviour.
Policy and Infrastructure Considerations
Policy options to support repair implementation include communication and marketing, fiscal measures, regulation, and service provision (Zhang & Hale, 2022). Some jurisdictions are leading the way: ‘Right to Repair’ laws have been introduced in various regions and could be extended to clothing. Some European countries have introduced tax breaks on repair services, making repair more cost-effective than replacing items.
The development of repair infrastructure is equally important. Our observations at Finisterre workshops revealed the value of physical spaces where repair happens—not just for the technical service provided, but for the community building, skill sharing, and cultural shift they enable. Community mending events can foster intergenerational learning, strengthen social bonds across generations, and create feelings of social connectedness (Diddi & Yan, 2019).
Looking Ahead: From Niche to Mainstream
Our hope is that this work will spark wider conversations—and action—on how repair can help shift fashion from a linear to a truly circular model. The transition won’t be simple. As our research and the broader literature make clear, repair requires fundamental changes in how we design products, structure business models, engage consumers, and create supportive policy environments.
But the potential rewards are substantial. Beyond environmental benefits, repair offers opportunities for brand differentiation, customer loyalty, local economic development through skilled repair jobs, and cultural shifts toward more mindful consumption. Brands that authentically embrace repair and other circular initiatives can create trust and loyalty that sets them apart, even when sustainability isn’t the deciding factor in every consumer purchase (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2021).
As we complete our research, one thing is clear: repair is moving from the margins toward the mainstream. The brands, policymakers, and consumers who embrace this shift—who invest in the infrastructure, develop the skills, create the enabling conditions, and champion the cultural change required—will be the ones who thrive in fashion’s circular future.
We look forward to sharing our full findings and continuing this important conversation with all stakeholders committed to making fashion more sustainable, one repair at a time.
About this project: This nine-month research project, The Business of Repair: Evidence-backed Strategies for Circular Fashion, is exploring business models for repair in the UK fashion sector, with a particular focus on practical implementation insights from field observations and stakeholder engagement. The project aims to produce actionable guidance for businesses and policy recommendations for accelerating the transition to circular fashion.
References
Circle Economy Foundation. (2024). Nudie Jeans – Free repairs program for clothes. https://knowledge-hub.circle-economy.com/article/3858
Diddi, S., & Yan, R. N. (2019). Consumer perceptions related to clothing repair and community mending events: A circular economy perspective. Sustainability, 11(19), 5306. https://doi.org/10.3390/su11195306
Durrani, M. (2018). “People gather for stranger things, so why not this?” Learning sustainable sensibilities through communal garment-mending practices. Sustainability, 10(7), 2218. https://doi.org/10.3390/su10072218
Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (2017). A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future. https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/a-new-textiles-economy
Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (2021). Circular business models: Redefining growth for a thriving fashion industry. https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/press-release-circular-business-models
EU Textiles Ecosystem Platform. (2025). Prolonging the lifespan of denim: Repair and reuse services at Nudie Jeans. https://transition-pathways.europa.eu/textiles/best-practices/prolonging-lifespan-denim-repair-and-reuse-services-nudie-jeans
Fashion Agenda & Boston Consulting Group. (2017). Pulse of the fashion industry. https://www.globalfashionagenda.com/pulse-of-the-fashion-industry/
Gwilt, A. (2014). What prevents people repairing clothes? An investigation into community-based approaches to sustainable product-service systems for clothing repair. Making Futures Journal, 3. Retrieved from https://makingfutures-journal.org.uk/index.php/mfj/article/view/126 accessed 31 July 2025.
Laitala, K. & Klepp, I. G. (2018). Care and production of clothing in Norwegian homes: Environmental implications of mending and making practices. Sustainability, 10(8), 2899. https://doi.org/10.3390/su10082899
McQueen, R. H., McNeill, L. S., Huang, Q., & Potdar, B. (2022). Unpicking the gender gap: Examining socio-demographic factors and repair resources in clothing repair practice. Recycling, 7(4), 53. https://doi.org/10.3390/recycling7040053
Modern Retail. (2023, February 28). How Nudie Jeans is getting customers to repair their clothing, instead of tossing it. https://www.modernretail.co/operations/how-nudie-jeans-is-getting-customers-to-repair-their-clothing-instead-of-tossing-it/
Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T., & Gwilt, A. (2020). The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature reviews earth & environment, 1(4), 189-200.
Patagonia. (2025). Environmental and social progress report fiscal year 2025. https://www.patagonia.com/
Willett, J., Saunders, C., Hackney, F., & Hill, K. (2022). The affective economy and fast fashion: Materiality, embodied learning, and developing a sensibility for sustainable clothing. Journal of Material Culture, 27(3), 219-237. https://doi.org/10.1177/13591835221088524
WRAP. (2012). Valuing our clothes: The evidence base. Retrieved from: https://www.truevaluemetrics.org/DBpdfs/Issues/SupplyChain/Textiles/WRAP-REPORT-10.7.12%20VOC-%20FINAL.pdf
WRAP. (2024). Textiles market situation report 2024. https://www.wrap.ngo/resources/report/textiles-market-situation-report-2024
Zhang, L., & Hale, J. (2022). Extending the lifetime of clothing through repair and repurpose: An investigation of barriers and enablers in UK citizens. Sustainability, 14(17), 10821. https://doi.org/10.3390/su14171082
